29 November, 2010
With dimensions: a trapezoid tanktop design
Continuing with my variations on the pleating theme, I thought to simplify the overlapping fronts plus shoulder pleats with this design:
It doesn't get much simpler, does it? Originally I wanted to have the shoulder "seam" shirred to about 10 cm/4", and to minimize the bulk in that area, made the top of the garment on a fold. There's actually no shoulder seam at all.
This fabric (an uber-lightweight silk crepe from Fashion Fabrics Club) does very well to show the construction, with its horizontal pattern theme (in flat fabric, the rivers really are perfectly horizontal). Once I saw it in the mirror like this, it became clear that shirring these lovely waves was going to be just too much. No, it would downright ruin what's already a great feature. So I left it as is.
The neckline is bound with not-quite-45-degrees bias, armholes are folded over twice, side seams frenched, and the bottom band is doubled and stitched in the ditch. Not a single raw or serged edge to be seen anywhere! The top uses practically every scrap of exactly one yard of 42" width fabric.
Edit: by request, actual measurements.
These are the finished dimensions. The raw fabric pieces were:
Main body: 79 cm/31" wide x 112cm/44" long, folded in half along the top. Because the fabric is very light and hard to cut perfectly straight, I allowed 2cm/0.75" for each double fold on the sleeves. The bottom is tapered to 56cm/22" wide. The diagonals start 21.5cm/8.5" below the fold, and that's also where diagonal seam ends. The front neckline is cut in a curve that drops it about 3.5cm/1.5" lower than the back, which is straight across.
Bottom band: a single piece of fabric, 109cm/43" x 20.5cm/8". I attached it after only one vertical/diagonal seam was sewn, and then sewed it closed in one go with the other vertical/diagonal seam.
The pants, a teeny beige-white pinstripe, are a silk-linen blend from Michael's.
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Love that top! Brilliant use of the stripes. Personally, I don't think it needs shirring at the shoulder, regardless of what fabric you use. Perfect as is.
ReplyDeleteThis is a great top! and no need for shirring.
ReplyDeleteCan you share the dimensions of your pattern?
Thanks. I have a small piece of 100 cm (42 inch) silk that would look fabulous made up like this
Sewingelle
What a pretty, cool top that is! Oh, for hot summer weather, I would love to have a whole wardrobe of those.
ReplyDeleteThis is totally cool. I got a silk remnant at G Street earlier this year that needs to be made into a one piece top--I'm def going to keep this in mind. The hip band adds shape, but it's still loose enough to pull over the head, which is perfect.
ReplyDelete