23 November, 2010

An experiment in draping

Having first explored the slicing and dicing approach to tee variability, I turned to draping.

The one-shoulder wonders from Burda's Nov. 2010 issue, though a tad impractical for everyday wear (understatement!) or even a daytime Christmas party (lots of those creeping up on many of us!), do have potential.

It occurred to me that they could easily be adapted to something a little more wearable. Especially so when you look at the pattern pieces; top 105 and dress 106:

 What are they, exactly? An adaptation of a tee: one shoulder is removed above the armhole,  and the other side widened sufficiently to make the shoulder seam twice as wide as normal.

It's easy enough to reproduce if you happen to have a "cut one on fold" sleeveless tee pattern piece.

I first redrew the complete front (the right half with a dashed line), then matched the lower right corner of the original half-pattern piece to the drawing and rotated it to the right so the shoulder seam was widened to twice its original width.  Free-handed the neckline curve to the opposite armscye, and cut away the no-longer-needed shoulder piece (marked with X). 

As a last step, after verifying that the overall width was more than sufficient, I pleated out the bust dart.

To make my tee, I cut two fronts and gathered their shoulders to the shoulder seams of my regular tee back. 

I bound the entire neck seam before sewing up the sides; because the two fronts' overlap is quite high, there's absolutely no need to attach them to each other.

I made this up in a very lightweight and sheer polyester crinkle crepe, too light to be a single layered front, but perfect if doubled. The back, in "coffin clothes" fashion, is a plain single layer, but I plan to cover it with a lightweight white blouse ;) at the very least.  

Overall, the effect is oh so modest.  But - if you wanted to have something a little less daytime, you could duplicate a similarly double layered back, gather the shoulders some more and curve the diagonal seam a little lower.  Why not even run that neckline curve below rather than above the bust?


  1. What a great idea! So simple and chic.

  2. Nice adaptation! It looks great!

  3. What a great idea! Looks wonderful.

  4. I like how the layer of fabric next to your skin shadows through the top layer. Very intersting effect. It would be interesting to layer two different colored sheer fabrics.

  5. Beautiful - casual yet elegant. A great addition to your desert wardrobe!