It's the McCall's Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit "The Perfect Suit" M5396 jacket. I made a straight size 12, with size 10 sleeves (shortened by 9 cm/3.5") , and slightly flattened by 1/4" sleeve caps.
Beautiful little pattern - and the daughter opined, "it looks effortless". I really like the small lapels, the princess bust seam, and the shoulder to hip dart. But I have a sneaking suspicion that I'd have done as well if not better to have made a size 10 back and sleeves, and then added 3/8" to each side front at the side seam to allow for my upper front. I intend to shanghai a certain person...shhhhh! to help me really fit it, so I can use it again and again.
|Flat felling & top stitching close-up|
Flat-felling isn't as laborious as one might suspect (and much faster than bias binding) , once you get into the press-press-trim-press-press-sew groove). Still, it would've been nice if the pattern had matched the under-sleeve seam with the side seam, and instructed them to be inserted in the flat, as with a man's shirt.
The pattern instructions tell you to bias bind the sleeve inset, but frankly I just gave up at that point, and simply used the triple zig zag on it. I omitted the shoulder pads as well, and took in 3/8" of the outer front-shoulder yoke seam to allow for that. I could probably have reduced the shoulder space some more by re-drawing the shoulder curve - next time!
I gave the jacket 3 buttons instead of four, and used my snazzy Singer buttonholer with 1+ 1/16" keyhole buttonhole template to make eye-popping buttonholes that match three big look-at-me-look-at-me-now 1" white buttons.
Big question now is, what to do with the rest of all this lovely green+white cross-dyed linen?