|Gil Brandao wrap blouse|
Its pattern is published in a book of Gil Brandao's designs, and is reviewed, with a scale drawing of the pattern, at Studio Faro's blog as one of their pattern puzzle entries. Thank you, Anita!
I looked at the pattern and thought, if I'm to make a wearable item here, I have to consider how to finish all the edges. In the original design (I don't want to embed it here without permission) the armscye is a deep and narrow wedge, and I worried that I wouldn't be able to finish it nicely, what with binding in two directions in such a tight corner. My solution? I added a side seam to it:
Now each side of the armscye (the armscye is that deep vertical "dart" between the two pieces) had its own seam allowance that continued all the way down the side seam, and finishing said edges became easy. For a nice clean finish, I turned all SA's over twice to make a narrow hem along all edges and edgestitched. There was a lot of basting involved, but the end result was very much worth the time. As it turned out, at 115 cm, my fabric was too narrow to create the entire garment out of one piece, so the side seam was a necessity.
End of story? Not quite. When I tried it on, I realized that this design exposes lots of belly flesh unless worn with/over a very high waisted bottom. I don't wear high waisted bottoms. This also demanded a solution, so I added a lower panel to the under-lapping (left) side of the wrap:
|A fun little winter project!|
It's definitely wearable! It'll look great over a nice flowy black midi skirt, won't it? And, original design notwithstanding, I'd probably tuck that back panel inside as well.
|Side seam and armscye bust dart clearly visible. The side seam's lower end could be raised so the lower panels split at, not below, the waistline|
1. raise the upper front; 2. shorten (drop) the upper back, so the "shoulder corner seams" are a little further back; 3. narrow the back a little; 4. raise the waistline aka point of separation of the front and back peplums; and of course, 5. add the front peplum for belly coverage. But these are minor.
Do you may recognize the fabric? it's a very pretty lightweight silk crepe from, I think, Fabric Mart, bought many years ago. It responds very well to the stretching punishment of being a wrap!