For this one, I used the grey/pink/blue wool boucle I described way back in March 2012 under "Anatomy of a boucle". It's truly a beautiful fabric, and of course it begged to become a Ch*anel or Little French Jacket.
I decided to use the same pattern, New Look 6516, and technique (quilting an underlining and sewing a regular lining) as I did for my Rainbow Jacket. I'm promising myself that one day I'll make a LFJ using the classic quilted lining method, but that day hasn't yet come. To tell the truth, I like a loose lining because it floats free of the fashion fabric, thereby adding a layer of air and thus making a warmer garment. Especially in wool with a silk lining, for a winter jacket. Along those lines, I'm rationalizing that a cotton or some other non-wool tweed or boucle, paired with a quilted bemberg rayon lining would be a very fine idea for a summer garment.
To make this one a little different from my previous LFJ's, I opted for a fringed trim. We-heh-helll. Talk about a make-work project. Separating these curly, tightly interwoven fibres was a major PITA. I thought I'd die of tedium and boredom.... but as the Chinese proverb says, a journey of a thousand leagues begins with one step. Hence the trim-making process:
At the top we have a me-made ribbon: it's made from a silk twill that's also destined to become the jacket's lining plus a matching top. The ribbon strips were cut on the bias, sewed wrong sides together, and pressed so the seam is concealed underneath. Since the ribbon will be sewn down on top of the fringe (as shown above), I saved myself the effort of turning all those tiny narrow tubes inside out. The top two fringes are already trimmed; the third is not. The fourth strip from the top is in the process of being fringed. Each of these fringe strips is made up of two bias strips of the fashion fabric, laid on top of each other and sewed together down the middle, as in the second strip from the bottom. The bottom strip is just a singleton - a spare. I used the blunt end of the largest darning needle I could find in my needle collection to separate those pesky curly fibres: YAWN!
Here's a closeup of the fringes in progress:
...and here's an even closer closeup that shows how the silk ribbon looks just lying on top of the fringe.
To be honest, I'd have used a manufactured trim if I'd been able to find one in the correct (narrow) size and matching pink colour. But these criteria couldn't be met in my little town - so the me-made ribbon is the only solution, otherwise the jacket would've become a UFO till my next trip to NY NY. I'm just not willing to wait that long.
The jacket's coming along. The outer body, with its fine cotton broadcloth underlining quilted on, is already constructed, and the pockets - one big and one little on each side - are already attached. Sleeve trim is only basted on at the moment: